A reader has requested more posts about garments from the 1930s and 40s. Today, a look at daytime dresses and suits from Parisian designers in the spring of 1930. You can see in these examples that the dropped waist of the 20s is moving back to the natural waistline of the 30s. Are you as much in love as I am with these?
Yes, Dupont, the company that brings you "Better things for better living...through chemistry" took out a multi-page advertisement in the spring of 1969 featuring it's Orlon acrylic blend fabrics used by Paris couturiers.
The 1960s were known for technological advances and the use of synthetic materials in avante-garde fashion. We saw the use of vinyl, mylar, and other synthetics. By the late 60s, the traditional couture client was becoming a thing of the past. Ready-to-wear was experiencing an explosion of popularity. Dupont seized upon the opportunity to promote it's man-made fibers to the couturiers and to benefit from the status that link provided. And, no doubt, money exchanged hands as part of the deal.
Here, Paris couture from the spring of 1969.
Castillo navy and white plaid 3 piece suit in wool and Orlon acrylic blend.
Jeanne Lanvin black and white glen plaid coat in wool/Orlon acrylic blend.
Jean Patou white and yellow jumpsuit and jacket in double faced gabardine in a blend of Orlon acrylic and wool.
Madeleine de Rauch pink coat in double faced gabardine in a blend of wool and Orlon acrylic.
Phillipe Venet white and navy plaid 7/8 coat in double-faced gabardine of wool and Orlon acrylic.
Later this week, the holiday party season begins. Have you been invited to one, two, or more soirees? This week and next, we'll look at evening wear through the decades. I hope you'll be inspired to dress up and make a lasting impression on your fellow party-goers. Let's all end 2010 with some glamour, OK?
In the 1920s evening dresses are mid-calf in length and hang straight from the shoulders to the hem. The waistline is dropped and evening dresses are normally sleeveless. Delicate silk chiffons and crepes abound, often decorated with lace or elaborate beading. Enjoy these looks from 1925.
A beaded silk dress is worn with a dramatic feathered headpiece.
Lucien Lelong navy silk trimmed in lace at the skirt and flowers at the dropped waist.
Sheer gold lace and tulle float over a silk crepe underslip.
This dress has an elaborate beaded bird on the front and fringe at the hem.
Jean Patou adorns the skirt of this dress with flowers
It's 1972 and the whole world is mad for plaid. Plaid coats, plaid suits, plaid skirts, plaid pants. Plaid, plaid, plaid!
Get Gaston Jaunet wool plaid coat with cape style sleeves.
At left: Webe plaid overcoat with detachable capelet.
Dormeuil tartan plaid pant suit with bell bottoms.
At left: Boutique Nina Ricci plaid wool jacket worn over black pleated dress.
Pierre Balmain Boutique fuzzy wool coat with capelet.
On the Paris Couture runways for spring of 1961, the favorite look for evening was anything but black. Lots of white and pastel shades were shown, and ethereal floating chiffons in floral prints were also wildly popular. Here are a few evening gowns for your enjoyment.
Mme. Grès slim-fitting gown in lime-yellow silk crepe with floating hip-length panels at the front and back.
Jean Patou slim-fitting sleeveless gown of white silk surah with big black polka dots. The matching jacket has black mink fur cuffs.
Jean Dessès silk chiffon evening gown in a yellow, orange, and white floral print. The gown is low-cut and fitted and has a floating wrap that is crossed and wraped at the shoulders.
Pierre Balmain two piece set. The silk marquisette top is covered with gold embroidery, coral beads, and rhinestones. It is worn with a white silk chiffon skirt.
One of the few black dresses for evening 1961 by Jacques Heim. Narrowly pleated black silk chiffon falls from a straight strapless neckline and has a wide black satin sash at the waist.
How about a little Parisian couture from the Fall of 1966 today? Yes, I thought so.
Left: Christian Dior black silk crepe dinner dress with a wide band of silver sequins at the empire waist and at the same level on the upper arm. The long sleeves are slit to the wrist.
Right: Christian Dior black silk crepe evening gown with cut-outs at the back accented with diamanté ball buttons.
This cut-out style was destined to be copied by nearly everyone. I've sold numerous 1960's cocktail dresses with interesting cut-outs at the back. This is the original.
Lanvin black silk crepe evening gown is circled in stripes of pink, acid green, and black sequins at the bodice. Interesting squared-off armholes.
Patou coatdress in cream double-faced wool that has been cut on the bias. Welted seams tame the bias. Worn with ribbed tights, kidskin boots, and a wool cap over a silk head scarf.
Left: Philippe Venet back wrap coat in neon yellow brushed wool fleece.
Right: Philippe Venet back wrap coat in cream wool fleece. Has a belt and a slit at the front hem.
OK, I have to comment on these coats. They close in the back. Interesting, but I can just see myself trying to figure out how the heck this was worn if I ever found one of these at an estate. I would more than likely have put it on the mannequin backwards and wondered why it wasn't falling correctly and why the pockets were on the back!
Yves St. Laurent grey wool coat with a flared fit and big silver disc buttons.
Yves St. Laurent black wool coat fitted at the bodice and flaring below the waist. Accented with big gold disc buttons.
By now, you probably know that, in addition to being a vintage clothing fiend, I am an art fanatic. This morning, I was flipping through the pages of a Vogue magazine from 1962, and came across this image. I love it when two of my favorite things mesh so beautifully. In the photo above, taken by Helmut Newton, the model wears an evening gown made from Vogue pattern 1153, designed by Jean Patou and sewn in a gorgeous floral silk.
Love that open back. And the fact that it has a little jacket to match? Perfect for day-to-date in the shorter version.
That wooden structure the model is draped across? It's a sculpture by European artist Martha Pan. It was shown at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs, Paris as part of the 1962 exhibit "Antagonismes", which was devoted to objects for the new "art of living". The floating sculpture was designed as a diving board for a lake in the Kröller-Muller Museum's sculpture garden in Otterlo, Netherlands.
I can't find much information in English about Martha Pan, but there are several images of her sculpture if you Google her. Most seems to be for outdoor spaces, including this one in Paris.
The Kröller-Muller sculpture garden underwent renovation in the early 1990's. This Martha Pan sculpture is now the one that floats in the lake. Perhaps the wooden one needed to be replaced? Wouldn't that Patou gown also look great draped on this one?
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