Weekend Eye Candy - Nina Ricci, 1970
Nina Ricci uses layer upon layer of printed silk chiffon for this dramatic look from Spring, 1970.
Nina Ricci uses layer upon layer of printed silk chiffon for this dramatic look from Spring, 1970.
Photographed in Bangkok, this ensemble by Nina Ricci Boutique is just as dramatic as its surroundings. Cream wool crepe is used for a voluminous cape and wide legged pants. Both are worn with a purple silk blouse. From Spring, 1970.
I've said it before and I'll say it again. Sometimes the serendipity of what I do is amazing. This morning I was flipping through a 1939 issue of Town and Country magazine and I found this half page ad for Clara's Custom Made Clothes at Eighteen East 53rd Street in New York. The address is right off of Madison Avenue and you know this was an expensive store for society's elite. Especially if the store could afford a half page ad in the front third of the pages of Town and Country.
But what's the big deal? What's so serendipitous?
Just last week, I listed a Nina Ricci dress dated 1971 that was sold by Clara's at 18 E. 53rd St. Yep, same store, same high quality garments, same elite customers. And that, my friends, is serendipity. I love what I do.
It's 1972 and the whole world is mad for plaid. Plaid coats, plaid suits, plaid skirts, plaid pants. Plaid, plaid, plaid!
At left: Webe plaid overcoat with detachable capelet.
At left: Boutique Nina Ricci plaid wool jacket worn over black pleated dress.
Floral print + evening gown = Love at first sight. Nina Ricci silk evening gown, 1957.
Did you know that Etro started as a fabric and textile manufacturer in 1968, a full 20 years before it's first clothing lines? Here Nina Ricci uses Etro fabric for a silk kimono jacket and pants set in 1980. Stunning and timeless, this set would still be completely wearable today.
On the Paris Couture runways for Spring 1961, designers showed suits in pastel colors as well as pale neutrals. Pink was the standout color in all shades, from blush to deep rose. Jackets were generally shorter and boxier with a softened shoulder line and sleeves ranged from elbow to bracelet length. Big buttons were a prominent feature. Skirt length was at the knee or slightly below. Here are some of the best.
Before Pierre Cardin's Mod looks became wildly popular, he designed classic suits and dresses. Here, his mauve pink wool suit has a loose-fitting jacket with a scallop at the hem. It closes with a large mauve flower at the neckline. The jacket is lined in printed silk chiffon.
Lanvin Castillo's rose pink wool suit features a curvy short jacket with elbow length sleeves and a stand-away collar.
Nina Ricci departed from the rest of the couture pack by showing a longer hip-length jacket, here layered over a matching sheath dress. The jacket, in gray worsted wool that reverses to beige, is closed with a loop at the side waist.
Jacques Heim curves the short jacket of this suit up in the front to expose a bit of the printed silk organza blouse. The suit is of a pink silk/linen blend.
In his first collection for Dior, Marc Bohan showed this suit in pale gray tweed. The jacket has a cut-away front and sloped shoulders. A shorter sleeveless shell in the same tweed is under the jacket.
Exquisite tailoring. That's what you want in a suit. This one by Paris couturier Nina Ricci is from 1967.
September 1961 - Nina Ricci gown in emerald green satin worn with a matching green satin coat edged in blue fox fur. Glittering earrings and a coiffure that makes a statement are all she needs.
December 1957 - Scassi ball gown in pale green silk moire has an asymmetric hem that dips to floor length in the back. Worn with a matching coat that is lined in white fox fur. Accessorized with satin shoes, white gloves, and sparkling earrings.
October 1960 - Dior strapless platinum grey silk satin gown with a large rose at the dropped waist and tulip shaped skirt. The model carries a flocked tulle wrap and wears black satin shoes and a bow at the back of her head.
December 1966 - Teal Traina charcoal silk chiffon column dress decorated with rows of silver paillettes. The matching stole worn as a head wrap. Coordinating clogs were made by Herbert Levine. The model wears a huge Charles Elkaim cocktail ring.

We continue to look at copies of 1961 Paris originals today, with two coats from Paris couturier Nina Ricci. Ricci always worked directly on the body by draping the fabric for a fluid and flattering garment. She was reknowned for her clever use of gathering, tucks, and drapery for dramatic effect.
Nina Ricci retired in the early 50's, and her son Richard took over the business. He hired Belgian designer Jules-François Crahay in 1954, who was very successful in paying homage to Nina's trademark feminine look. The two coats shown here are his designs.
These images, from the September 15, 1961 issue of Vogue, are of the Paris originals, which were copied in America. They are similar to the Dior coats we looked at yesterday in silhouette, yet very different in structure, with the fullness achieved through the use of soft pleats and godets.
The first coat was shown by Ricci in green tweed and was copied in the US by Dan Millstein for Saks Fifth Avenue, Woodward & Lothrop, and Daytons. The second coat was shown by Ricci in yellow wool boucle and copied in the US by Zelinka-Mattlick in Forstmann wool for Lord & Taylor and I. Magnin.
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