grace: vintage coats

Showing posts with label vintage coats. Show all posts

Spring Coats - 1956

On Friday, I asked my Facebook fans what they'd like to see on the blog this week. Honore requested a post about spring coats. Whatever happened to spring coats anyway? I'm so tired of my gray heavy wool winter coat and my leopard print down jacket. It's time for something different, but my waterproof rain jacket just won't do.

Vintage spring coats are usually made of lighter weight wool or cashmere, cotton poplin, or rayon gabardine. They are often in lighter and brighter colors than the heavy blacks, browns, and grays of winter. 1950s clutch coats are perfect for spring, as they have no buttons and can be worn open on warmer days. The examples shown here are all from 1956.

Above, a bright daffodil yellow clutch coat in lightweight Worumbo wool.

Lilli Ann made this swing coat in lightweight turquoise wool. What a great color for spring!

Bergdorf Goodman exclusive lightweight wool coat tailored with just 2 buttons up high. Came in beige, red, or navy. Perfect to wear over a spring dress!

Warren of Stafford raincoat with a loose back and big buttoned pockets.

Clyde cashmere clutch coat has push-up sleeves that work well with long kidskin gloves. Love that bag!

I've been inspired to store my gray wool winter coat and pull out my vintage 1950s pale pink cashmere clutch coat. Thanks, Honore! What about you? Do you have spring weight coat in your closet?

Mad For Plaid - 1972

It's 1972 and the whole world is mad for plaid. Plaid coats, plaid suits, plaid skirts, plaid pants. Plaid, plaid, plaid!

Get Gaston Jaunet wool plaid coat with cape style sleeves.

At left: Webe plaid overcoat with detachable capelet.
At right: Redine Loubens herringbone wool cape and knickers.

Dormeuil tartan plaid pant suit with bell bottoms.

At left: Boutique Nina Ricci plaid wool jacket worn over black pleated dress.
At right: Jean Patou Boutique bias cut wool coat with kimono sleeves.

Pierre Balmain Boutique fuzzy wool coat with capelet.

Handelsman and Raiffe

Handelsman and Raiffe was another of the high-end coat and suit manufacturers in New York. I can find very little information about this company, but judging by the few ads I've located, they made gorgeous and expensive garments. Harry Raiffe was the designer, and the company's label was Rafi, New York.

Above, front and back views of a Rafi princess coat from 1954. Fashioned of a wool/rabbit hair blend, the coat was available in gray, black, navy, red, and ivory. Sold in 1954 for $135 (about $1,103 in today's dollar).

From 1952, a glorious full skirted Rafi suit in Forstmann wool with a little lace collar. The skirt was lined in Pellon for added body. Sold in 1952 for $130 (about $1,078 in today's dollar).

From 1957, a Rafi apricot silk suit trimmed in lynx fur. Sold in 1957 for $185 (about $1,446 in today's dollar).

From 1958, a Rafi blue wool suit with a dramatic portrait collar. The jacket is lined in the same floral silk that fashions the chemise blouse. Sold in 1958 for $125 (about $953 in today's dollar).

From 1959, a Rafi reversible double-faced wool coat was noted as being light weight and perfect for travel. Sold in 1959 for $110 (about $830 in today's dollar).

Vintage Coats - 1967

December is here. Winter officially begins in 2 1/2 weeks. I say, bring it on! I can stay warm by just looking at these fabulous vintage coats, all from 1967.

Christian Dior rayon velvet moire.

Check patterned worsted wool by Belle Saunders for Abe Schrader.

Laird-Knox for Bonwit Teller red wool military style mini coat.

Arbeit ranch mink coat with petal hem for I. Magnin.

Wool knit military style coat by Italian Couture Knitter Gino Paoli. Came with matching top, skirt, and pants.

Hey, don't remind me I said, "Bring it on!" when I start complaining about the cold in February, OK?

What's Old is New Again - Mohair Coats

File this under "What's Old is New Again". You may think the look of this plaid mohair coat by DKNY is fresh and new. And at $995, you'd sure hope so, wouldn't you?

Here it is on the runway at the DKNY Fall 2009 show.
Here it is in a recent issue of Vogue magazine.

Sorry, Donna. As a vintage clothing lover, I've seen this coat before and I don't need to spend a thousand dollars to get the look. Fuzzy plaid mohair coats were very popular in the early 1960s.

Marquise fuzzy wool and mohair coat from 1962.

Zelinka-Matlick wool and mohair coat in a big plaid from 1961.

La Vigna short mohair coat from 1962.

As a savvy consumer, I know if I purchase a vintage coat from the 1960s or 70s today, the quality and construction will be far superior to what you can offer me, and the price will be something my wallet can bear. Take these, for instance.

Donald Brooks vintage coat $225 at Enokiworld.

1960s plaid mohair coat $79.99 at GlamourSavvy.

Want the look for less? Do a Google search for "vintage plaid mohair coat". You'll find hundreds of possibilities. You'll even find a couple at Couture Allure!

Vintage Coats - 1980s

Today, I am finishing my series on coat styles through the decades with a look at the 1980s. The 80s was all about exaggeration. The inverted wedge or triangle shape ruled fashion with big shoulders and tapered legs. Coats had huge oversized shoulder pads, and they were worn over jackets or tops that had their own shoulder pads. Women looked like linebackers. Classic styles, such as the reefer or the trench coat were large in the shoulder and slim below the waist with deep dolman armholes.

Gianni Versace 1984

Claude Montana 1984

Gianfranco Ferre 1984

Bright pops of color were worn with black. This vivid turquoise wedge coat by Cuddlecoat is worn over black tights.

Here you can see another popular look, the flanged shoulder. Big tucks were taken at the shoulders to add volume, and then tapered to slimness below the waist.

Even basic trench coats had big shoulder pads. This one is by London Fog.

For casual wear, the bomber jacket, based on the classic baseball style, was popular in leather and acid washed denim.

Georges Marciano 1984

I hope you've found this series on coat styles through the years helpful when trying to date a vintage coat. It's been fun going down memory lane!

Vintage Coats - 1970s

Today, I continue our look at coats through the decades with the 1970s. As we saw last week, in the late 1960s, maxi coats and capes were hugely popular. These trends continue into the early 70s, but if there is one coat that defines the 1970s, it is the wrap coat.

1975

1972

No matter if they were made of wool, cashmere, tweed, or leather. No matter whether they had big fur collars or not, a coat that was belted with it's own sash was the look.

1974

As more casual clothing started to become popular, leather coats and denim jackets are seen more and more.

1973

The traditional poplin trench coat, a menswear style popular for decades, is translated for women.

1972

As pants become a mainstay of a woman's wardrobe, shorter jackets become stylish as an alternative to a longer coat.

1973

Knit fabrics are everywhere in the early 70s, and sweater coats, often with fur fronts or fur trim, are very popular. Long thickly knit cardigans that are belted at the waist are often worn as coats too.

By the late 1970s, belted styles are gone, and a straighter silhouette reigns. We start to see larger shoulder pads emerge, a harbinger of the 1980s.

Quilted, snap front coats are popular in the late 1970s. These are both reversible from one color to another.

By 1979, shoulders are dropping, big shoulder pads are in, and the oversized look emerges. We'll see more of this next week, with a look at coats in the 1980s.

Vintage Coats - 1950s

Today, I continue my look at coat styles through the years with the 1950s. As Dior's New Look emerged in the late 1940s, coats began to increase in width and volume to cover the new full skirted fashions. Full skirts did not trickle down to regular fashion until about 1950, which is when we start to see the same volume in coats worn by the everyday woman.

From 1950, here you see a coat with a fitted bodice that flares out with deep pleats in the skirt in the style we now call a princess coat. Notice the wide sleeves and huge collar.

Another popular style to wear with full skirts was a coat with huge volume that flares out from the shoulders. Today, we call this a swing coat. This coat dates to 1951. Note that the sleeves are now at 3/4 length with deep cuffs.

By 1955, a more modified princess style started to emerge with a fitted bodice and a flare that is not quite as wide in the skirt.

By the mid 1950s, the clutch coat becomes very popular. While very impractical, clutch coats were made with no buttons or closures of any kind. Women would wrap the coat closed and hold it in place with one arm clutched across the waist.

Here, you see another popular trend, the pushed up sleeve. When combined with a clutch style, I can imagine this woman constantly having to fuss with her coat!

Also, while full coats were still popular, we begin to see simpler, straighter cuts. This coat, from 1955, has sleeves that can be worn full length or pushed up.

In 1956, we see styles that are straight cut in front but with a bit of sack like fullness across the back. Those push up sleeves and clutch styles are still popular.

By 1958, sleeves are back to hanging straight. Slim Chesterfield style coats are popular for day...

...while for evening, the full cocoon style emerges. These coats were made of exotic fabrics and had unusual cuts with most of the sleeve cut as part of the body of the coat. This style will continue to emerge in the early 1960s, which we'll look at next week!