grace: vintage suits

Showing posts with label vintage suits. Show all posts

Suits for Travel - 1956

On Friday, I asked my Facebook fans what they'd like to see on the blog this week. Eleanor requested a post about vintage spring and summer suits for travel. They were so elegant! I'm with you Eleanor. I like to people-watch in airports and I'm always pleasantly surprised when I see a woman traveling in a suit. She looks so much more sophisticated than the majority who are wearing sweats and flip-flops. For your inspiration today, suits for travel from 1956.

Above, Handmacher gray flannel sheath dress with matching bolero jacket accented with a white linen collar. Sold for $70 in 1956 (about $570 in today's dollar.) Hat by Emme.

Davidow wool and mohair tweed suit with matching tasseled scarf. The jacket is belted. Sold for $150 in 1956 (about $1,220 in today's dollar.) Saddlebag styled purse by MacArthur.

David Crystal pale gray glen plaid suit in a rayon/Dacron blend. Dacron? That's polyester. This suit would resist wrinkling and be perfect for those long train trips. Sold for $40 in 1956 (about $325 in today's dollar.) Handbag by Josef.

Mr. Mort lightweight wool sheath dress in buttercup yellow paired with a plaid bolero jacket. Sold for $50 in 1956 (about $407 in today's dollar.) Bag by Maxwell Schill (me want!)

Swansdown wool suit with a bloused-back jacket for more ease during long trips. Sold for $60 in 1956 (about $488 in today's dollar.)

How do you dress for travel? Do you go for chic or do you prefer comfort?

Suits for Spring - 1962

Suits were an important part of every woman's wardrobe back in the day. Women would often buy a new suit for Easter and then wear it for years and years. These incredible feats of tailoring are from 1962. Do you wear suits?

Christian Dior

Lanvin-Castillo

Pierre Cardin

Pierre Balmain

Yves St. Laurent, from his first collection for his own label.

Vintage Suits - 1946

If you follow this blog, you know I am a sucker for vintage suits. My customers love them too. These images from February, 1946 show just how big the shoulder line became following WWII. I think the strong shoulders were one way a woman could show she was still capable after all the men returned from the service. And after years of austerity and fabric restriction, fashion went a little overboard!

Milgrim Original wool gabardine suit with lots of buttons.

Weiner Original worsted suit with matching coat. Notice the interesting juxtaposition of the ultra-feminine hat with the briefcase. Three pieces sold for $110 in 1946 (about $1234 in today's dollar.)

Jaunty Junior worsted suit with button detail and a tie waist. Sold for $55 in 1946 (about $617 in today's dollar.)

Jablow Original wool suit with a braid tie belt and collarless jacket. Sold for $80 in 1946 (about $898 in today's dollar.)

Halle Bros wool doeskin suit. The belted jacket has yoked shoulders and full blouse-like sleeves with button cuffs.

Who Doesn't Love Lilli Ann?

Really, how can you not love suits and coats from Lilli Ann? The company, owned by Adolph Schuman, was best known for it's dramatic suits and coats, especially those produced in the 1950s. Those same coats and suits still command high prices today, and are highly prized by both collectors and vintage fashion wearers. Here are a few ads for Lilli Ann that I'm sure will convince you:

1954 suit in a fabric called "Bamboo", a blend of silk chiffon, mohair, and worsted wool. The suit came in blue, cognac, fawn, green, and violet and had big rhinestone adornments at the sleeves. Sold in 1954 for $100.00 (about $817.00 in today's dollar).

Also from 1954, this princess coat was fashioned of a blend of wool and Alaskan seal, with velvet accents. Came in black, red, cognac, natural, and purple. Sold in 1954 for $100.00 (about $817.00 in today's dollar).

From 1956, an extravagant swing coat with a huge sweep, fashioned of black and white tweed accented with black velvet. Sold in 1956 for $100.00 (about $808.00 in today's dollar).

From 1958, a beige linen suit with a detachable fox fur stole. Sold in 1958 for $100.00 (about $760.00 in today's dollar).

Finally, from 1959, a wool crepe suit with dramatic ruffle detail and a large jeweled button. Available in pink, pale blue, coral, turquioise, beige, navy, and white. Sold in 1959 for $70.00 (about $529.00 in today's dollar).

The History of Handmacher Suits

Alvin Handmacher was the president of the largest maker of womens suits in the US. If you love vintage suits, you're probably familiar with the Handmacher name and you know what a high quality garment a suit with this label is.

1953

Alvin Handmacher was born in Chicago into the suit business. His father started a ladies suit company in Chicago in the 1880s. Handmacher graduated from the University of Chicago. In 1939, he moved to New York and opened Handmacher-Vogel with his partner, Irving Vogel. The company's offices were located on 7th Avenue in New York.

1956

Handmacher was the first to use assembly line production methods in the garment industry, an innovation that allowed him to produce huge quantities of high quality suits at reasonable prices. The sewers were trained to become experts in one facet of the suit's construction, whether that be sewing a dart, setting in a sleeve, or adding a waistband. Each sewer had a specific job, and that is what they did day in and day out.

1956

There were 6 Handmacher factories across the US, and each was precisely in tune with the other. Patterns were cut with rigid controls and tension was minutely calibrated on all sewing machines so that a size 10 suit made in New York was exactly the same as a size 10 suit made in Tennessee.

1961

Jane Derby was the designer for Handmacher, as well as for her own couture business. Derby interpreted, but never copied, European fashion trends from year to year. Handmacher suits were available in a wide range of sizing in both women's and junior's, as well as plus sizes.

1961

Handmacher suits were sold through one exclusive store in each city. In 1952, the suits were sold in over 600 stores across the US. 25 store buyers formed a judging panel. They were shown prototypes of new designs each season. Through this process, Handmacher chose only the most popular styles to put into production, thereby insuring a high sell through of product. By 1965, sales of Handmacher suits topped $19 million.

1963

Handmacher also manufactured a lower priced suit called "The Weathervane". These suits were manufactured of Celanese acetate, a less expensive fabric that held up well with use and wear.

Alvin Handmacher died on April 16, 1966 at age 60. The company continued in business until around 1990, but was never as successful as it was during the years when it was run by Alvin Handmacher.

Please note: Biographical information about Alvin Handmacher is copyright of Couture Allure and may not be copied without permission.

Handelsman and Raiffe

Handelsman and Raiffe was another of the high-end coat and suit manufacturers in New York. I can find very little information about this company, but judging by the few ads I've located, they made gorgeous and expensive garments. Harry Raiffe was the designer, and the company's label was Rafi, New York.

Above, front and back views of a Rafi princess coat from 1954. Fashioned of a wool/rabbit hair blend, the coat was available in gray, black, navy, red, and ivory. Sold in 1954 for $135 (about $1,103 in today's dollar).

From 1952, a glorious full skirted Rafi suit in Forstmann wool with a little lace collar. The skirt was lined in Pellon for added body. Sold in 1952 for $130 (about $1,078 in today's dollar).

From 1957, a Rafi apricot silk suit trimmed in lynx fur. Sold in 1957 for $185 (about $1,446 in today's dollar).

From 1958, a Rafi blue wool suit with a dramatic portrait collar. The jacket is lined in the same floral silk that fashions the chemise blouse. Sold in 1958 for $125 (about $953 in today's dollar).

From 1959, a Rafi reversible double-faced wool coat was noted as being light weight and perfect for travel. Sold in 1959 for $110 (about $830 in today's dollar).

Tweeds and Woolens - 1963

Fall is on the horizon and many of you are dreaming about the change of season and the resulting change in your wardrobe that will soon take place. In 1963, the fashion forward woman was adding a suit or two to her closet. Tailored to perfection, these suits were fashioned of wool tweeds that were woven with chunky threads in a myriad of colors and textures, or of heavy solid wools that held their shape. The suits were made to last, and they are far superior to anything you can buy today. A suit like this was an investment, and women would often wear them for several seasons.

This Monte-Sano and Pruzan mohair tweed 3 piece suit was available at Bergdorf Goodman. Their in-house milliner, Adolfo, made the matching tweed tam.

Ben Barrack houndstooth check suit in brushed mohair and wool. Came with a black silk peau de soie top and scarf. Sold for $145.00 in 1963 (about $1041.00 in today's dollar).

Monte-Sano and Pruzan black and white wool tweed suit. The jacket buttons up the back and has an attached scarf. Sold for $290.00 in 1963 (about $2082.00 in today's dollar).

Bardley suit in chunky wool was matched with a tweed coat with a stand-away collar. Set sold in 1963 for $215.00 (about $1544.00 in today's dollar).

Handmacher wool melton suit with coordinating cape. Note how the jacket is styled like a polo with a button placket. It pulls on over the head. Set sold in 1963 for $130.00 (about $933.00 in today's dollar).

Vintage Suits - 1949

I don't think you can find anything more unique and more sexy than a vintage suit from the late 1940s through the 1950s. Suits from this era are fitted to the body, exquisitely tailored, and they always have unique design details. They were made with great attention to fine construction. You'll usually find bound buttonholes, high quality fabrics, interfacings and linings, and wide seam allowances to allow for individual alterations.

Just look at the Paul Parnes suit from 1949 shown above. It closes with buckles instead of buttons, the white lapel and cuffs are probably removable for a different look, and the pockets and peplum are top-stitched. This suit sold for $125.00 in 1949 (about $1155.oo in today's dollar).

The fact is, a suit from the 1940s or 50s will always be of higher quality than anything you can buy today, unless you're shopping couture. That makes a vintage suit a fabulous bargain as well.

The suit above, by Philip Mangone for Bonwit Teller has bands of ruching at the lapels, cuffs, and at the hem edges of the jacket and skirt. Mangone was one of the premier suit makers at the time, and his suits are highly sought after today.

In the 1940s and 50s, most women had at least one suit in their closet to wear to meetings, to dinner, to go shopping in the city, for travel, or to wear to appointments with professionals such as doctors, attorneys, or teachers. Because suits were so well made, a woman could expect one to last for years.

This suit by Zuckerman and Kraus has three rows of buttons at the front. It's the center row of buttons that is used to close the suit. The rounded pocket edges mimic the hem of the jacket.

One suit to last for years? Yes, that was the expectation and the norm. A bride would usually purchase a good suit as part of her trousseau. She would wear it as her going-away outfit, and then continue to wear it for years to come. Women changed the look by changing their accessories, just as we do today, but they had the added options of hats and gloves in addition to handbags, jewelry, scarves, and coats.

Another beauty by Philip Mangone. Here the plaid lapels stand out against black wool. The pockets are decorated with plaid cording and the suit came with a matching plaid coat. The set sold for $395.00 in 1949 (about $3646.00 in today's dollar).

Why not try a vintage suit on for style? I know you'll be glad you did! We've got a great selection for you at Couture Allure.

This Cymonette Original suit was available in black, navy, or pale gray wool. Lines of trapunto accent the shoulders and the pocket edges have the same shape. Sold for $60.00 in 1949 (about $554.00 in today's dollar).

Photo #1 by Harold Halma, #2 by Radkai. All 5 photos are from advertisements in a 1949 magazine.

The Look of Suits - 1951

In 1951, ladies suits were tailored to show off a tiny waist. Design details were used to great effect to fool the eye and make waistlines appear even smaller than they were. Hem lengths for straight skirts fell 3"-4" below the knee. While fuller skirts were finally starting to become popular, most women opted for the classic straight skirt when purchasing a suit. Enjoy these beauties from 1951!

How can you not go crazy for this suit by Schiaparelli? 4 diagonal pleats all converge at the waist with a big button right in the center. It appears that the hipline of the jacket is flared just slightly with the use of stiff interlining. That technique also makes the waist appear tiny.

Adele Simpson wool suit in black and white tweed with black velvet lining the neckline. The black buttons end right at the waist and your eye is drawn right to that point. The hips stand away just slightly to make the waist appear small. Suit sold for $155 in 1951 (about $1297 in today's dollar).

Swansdown offered this wool tweed suit. The jacket has a subtle stripe that co-ordinates with the skirt. Those big pocket flaps accent the width of the hips, making the waist appear smaller. The suit sold for $80 in 1951 (about $670 in today's dollar).

Famous furrier Revillon offered this suit in wool with an attached Karakul lamb fur stole. Here the jacket flares into a pleated peplum and the waist is belted, all to accent the appearance of slimness.

Another Adele Simpson suit, this time in black and white micro-herringbone check with black velvet at the collar. Here Simpson makes a V with the buttons, fooling the eye into thinking the bust is large and the waist is tiny. The hipline of this jacket is definitely wider than that of the skirt. Suit sold for $155 in 1951 (about $1297 in today's dollar).

The Look of Suits - 1955

Back in the day, most women had at least one good suit in their closet. Spring was the perfect time to buy a new one, as you could wear it for Easter and then continue to use it for years to come. Take a look at these beauties from 1955. Be prepared to drool.

This Zelinka-Matlick suit was featured in an ad for Miron wool, "the best wool you can put on your back". The hat is by Sally Victor and the fur muff by Fredrica.

A Bergdorf Goodman exclusive, this worsted flannel suit came in gray or navy. Sold for $195 in 1955 (about $1577 in today's dollar).

The Cadillac of suit makers, Lilli Ann, offered this one in an unusual blend of silk, mohair, and worsted wool. "Sleeves are pleated for drama...buckles are from Austria, studded with hand-cut brilliants...in turquoise, coral, pale beige, or mauve blue". Sold for $100 in 1955 (about $809 in today's dollar).

Bonwit Teller offered this suit by Monte-Sano in gray tweed or navy Forstmann wool. It has s shorter double-breasted jacket over a fullish skirt. Jacques Tiffeau was the designer at Monte-Sano at this time, so this is one of his suits. Sold for $235 in 1955 (about $1900 in today's dollar).

Oleg Cassini started designing under his own label in the early 1950s. He always did sexy, even in a simple suit. Va voom!

At Couture Allure, we love vintage suits, and always try to have a nice selection available for you. For spring, I love this 1950s tropical weight gray wool suit by Handmacher. It has sweet smiley pockets and the sleeves can be worn cuffed or not.