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Showing posts with label 1949. Show all posts
Showing posts with label 1949. Show all posts

Thank You and 1949 Evening Gowns

Thank you a thousand times for the huge outpouring of support after my blog post last Monday.  As your comments and emails poured in during the day and throughout the rest of the week, it became crystal clear that my time spent here is worth every minute.  I appreciate every one of you and am so glad that you enjoy my work.  I want you to know that I approved and posted every comment that came in, including a couple of less-than-positive remarks from anonymous posters.  In response to a few suggestions, I have removed the word verification from comments and will be watermarking the photos in a less conspicuous way.  And now, back to work!

I wish I could tell you where Louise Dahl-Wolfe took these beautiful photos in 1949.  The background of the antique silvered mirror wall provides a perfect setting for three luscious party dresses that are perfect for summer.

Left:  Red and white polka dotted cotton organdy fashions a strapless pouf of a dress by Fred Perlberg.  Prarie points accent the edge of the bodice.  Sold for $29.95 in 1949 (about $284 in today's dollar.)
Right:  More organdy, this time in white printed with bouquets of roses.  The gown is by Ceil Chapman and has a ruched bodice with a shoulder wrap that extends from one side.  Sold for $70 in 1949 (about $665 in today's dollar.)

David Klein designed this dress to look like a flower.  White taffeta forms petals over netting in the skirt.  Sold for $35 in 1949 (about $332 in today's dollar.)

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I'll Have One of Each Please!

 Don't these shoes look great?  And comfortable too!  Town & Country ran this two page ad to introduce their new line of jewel-toned shoes and bags for spring of 1949.  They were made of Maracain, which was a trademark of Allied Kid Company.  Maracain was "unfinished and partly finished leather made from kid, goat, calf, or cowhide."

At left, the Basquette wedge sling back came in turquoise, yellow, red or green.  On the right, the Basquette low heel shoe came in turquoise only.

At left, the Allegro sandal came in yellow, turquoise, green, red, and white.  There's the Basquette wedge again at the right.  All of the shoe styles sold for $8.95 in 1949 (about $83.00 in today's dollar.)  And here's the kicker:  they were all available in sizes 4 to 10 and widths AAA to B.  I wish today's shoes were available in all those sizes.

The matching purse came in all the colors and sold for $10.75 in 1949 (about $100.00 in today's dollar.)

Since I can't choose, I'll have one pair of each please, in all the colors.....and the matching bags would be nice too.  Aren't they great?

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The Little Brown Dress

Christian Dior, 1949Christian Dior New York ribbed silk dress with a large bow draped across the bodice.

It is said that every woman should have a little black dress in her wardrobe. But if you subscribe to the "seasonal" skin tone theory, the only people who can truly wear black near their face well are those described as "winter". The rest of us should choose something less harsh like gray, navy, or brown. Granted, I wear black a lot, but rarely on top because I am a "spring". Black near my face tends to accentuate the rings under my eyes and makes me look tired. I do like to wear brown, though. It just works for me. What about you? Do you wear brown as a neutral in your wardrobe?

In the spring of 1949, brown was a popular color of choice for many fashion designers (especially M. Dior), as evidenced in these photos.

Omar Kaim, 1949Omar Kaim for Ben Reig silk organza and satin evening gown with a large bow at the side.

Christian Dior, 1949, suitChristian Dior Couture brown wool suit.

Jo Copeland, 1949Jo Copeland brown tulle over taffeta dress with low decollete.

Christian Dior, 1949Christian Dior Couture silk dress with fly-away skirt panel at the back.

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Omar Kiam for Ben Reig, 1949

Could you just die? This stunning ensemble was designed by Omar Kiam for Ben Reig in the spring of 1949. The floral fabric is an Onondaga silk styled by Philip A. Vogelman. The little capelet jacket slips on over a sheer white blouse with pearl buttons. The pearls are echoed in a triple strand choker at the neck. Can you see the ingenious draping of the skirt? Click on the picture for a larger view if you like.

But what about that chair she's standing in front of? Can anyone tell me about it?

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Weekend Eye Candy - Christian Dior, 1949

Staying warm in a Christian Dior red wool coat with black fox fur at the sleeves, 1949.

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Filene's French Shops

If you live in Boston, you remember Filene's, the city's venerable old department store in Downtown Crossing. Founded in 1881 by William Filene, the store was best known for the famous Filene's Basement where surplus and closeout bargains were housed. But if you left the chaos and hubbub of the basement and made your way upstairs to the Third Floor, you would find the elegant French Shops. Started in the 1920s and lasting into at least the 1960s, this is where Filene's offered exclusive and expensive clothing from the best known designers of the day. While it may have started out offering only French clothing, by the 1940s the French Shops carried garments by the elite of American designers as well. Below are images from a two page advertisement in Harper's Bazaar from 1949.

"Filene's French Shops present Adrian's Baroque Memories, a commanding dinner costume with dramatic long-paneled stole."

"Filene's French Shops present Nettie Rosenstein's Petal Chemise, billowing lace over a sheath of pure silk taffeta."

Adrian and Nettie Rosenstein? Where's that time machine when I need it?

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Vacation Time!

Amelia Earhart luggage 1949Dear friends, I am headed off to the West Coast to visit family for a few days. The website will be closed, and there will be no shipping until October 12. But the blog will still be active, with fresh new posts every day while I am away.

While I have no desire to take 6 suitcases with me, I do wish I had this sweet little jacket from 1949. The original was designed by Jacques Fath and was copied in the US by Jaunty Junior in suede. Sold in 1949 for $55 (about $508 in today's dollar).

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That Touch of Mink

I love these ideas from 1949 for wearing just a touch of mink. At a time when most women wore stoles of the entire mink pelt, including the heads, feet, and tails, these fur scarves are a refreshing change of pace.

If you have a damaged fur coat or stole and don't know what to do with it, making a scarf like this can preserve at least some of the pelts. If you prefer not to wear real fur, there are lots of high quality faux fur fabrics on the market.

Even the narrowest length of fur can be tied in a jaunty bow at the neck. Fun!

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Vintage Suits - 1949

I don't think you can find anything more unique and more sexy than a vintage suit from the late 1940s through the 1950s. Suits from this era are fitted to the body, exquisitely tailored, and they always have unique design details. They were made with great attention to fine construction. You'll usually find bound buttonholes, high quality fabrics, interfacings and linings, and wide seam allowances to allow for individual alterations.

Just look at the Paul Parnes suit from 1949 shown above. It closes with buckles instead of buttons, the white lapel and cuffs are probably removable for a different look, and the pockets and peplum are top-stitched. This suit sold for $125.00 in 1949 (about $1155.oo in today's dollar).

The fact is, a suit from the 1940s or 50s will always be of higher quality than anything you can buy today, unless you're shopping couture. That makes a vintage suit a fabulous bargain as well.

The suit above, by Philip Mangone for Bonwit Teller has bands of ruching at the lapels, cuffs, and at the hem edges of the jacket and skirt. Mangone was one of the premier suit makers at the time, and his suits are highly sought after today.

In the 1940s and 50s, most women had at least one suit in their closet to wear to meetings, to dinner, to go shopping in the city, for travel, or to wear to appointments with professionals such as doctors, attorneys, or teachers. Because suits were so well made, a woman could expect one to last for years.

This suit by Zuckerman and Kraus has three rows of buttons at the front. It's the center row of buttons that is used to close the suit. The rounded pocket edges mimic the hem of the jacket.

One suit to last for years? Yes, that was the expectation and the norm. A bride would usually purchase a good suit as part of her trousseau. She would wear it as her going-away outfit, and then continue to wear it for years to come. Women changed the look by changing their accessories, just as we do today, but they had the added options of hats and gloves in addition to handbags, jewelry, scarves, and coats.

Another beauty by Philip Mangone. Here the plaid lapels stand out against black wool. The pockets are decorated with plaid cording and the suit came with a matching plaid coat. The set sold for $395.00 in 1949 (about $3646.00 in today's dollar).

Why not try a vintage suit on for style? I know you'll be glad you did! We've got a great selection for you at Couture Allure.

This Cymonette Original suit was available in black, navy, or pale gray wool. Lines of trapunto accent the shoulders and the pocket edges have the same shape. Sold for $60.00 in 1949 (about $554.00 in today's dollar).


Photo #1 by Harold Halma, #2 by Radkai. All 5 photos are from advertisements in a 1949 magazine.

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Summer Dresses - 1949

Ahh, the days are long and hot. Wartime restrictions are gone and women have begun to embrace the "New Look". Skirts are fuller, although they don't have as much width at the hem as we will see in a few short years. Hemlines have headed south again. Here, dresses for the heat of summer from 1949. All photos were taken by Richard Dormer in Rome.

Mildred Orrick embroidered cotton dress with side pleats in the skirt. Sold for $35 in 1949 (about $323 in today's dollar).

High necked top and full skirt in a marbelized cotton print by Owen Morgan. Sold for $22 in 1949 (about $203 in today's dollar).

Carolyn Schnurer knitted elasticized wool top to wear with or without straps is matched with a cotton striped skirt. Sold for $35 in 1949 (about $323 in today's dollar).

At left: Cotton dress with sunburst pleats at the bust by Barbee Jr. Sold for $23 in 1949 (about $212 in today's dollar).
At right: Kenneth Tischler cotton dress with tucked bands at the square neckline and sleeve cuffs. Sold for $19 in 1949 (about $175 in today's dollar).

Chambray dress with elastic shirring at the neckline by David Crystal. Sold for $25 in 1949 (about $231 in today's dollar).

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Vintage Play Clothes - 1949

Rochas seersucker jumpsuit, 1949

When you think of your mom or grandmom going to the beach or to the park in mid-summer 1949, what do you see her wearing? Sometimes, we have a notion that back then, women wore dresses or skirts all the time. Nothing could be further from the truth! For casual or sporty outings, shorts, clam diggers, and pants were definitely A-OK. After all, you don't have to be a kid to have fun at play!

Tina Leser madras cotton coverall. Sold for $19 in 1949 (about $174 in today's dollar).

Sportwhirl navy poplin jacket is matched with lighter blue cuffed shorts. The jacket sold for $10.95 in 1949 (about $100 in today's dollar).

Blue cotton midriff blouse and bloomer shorts by Mme. Grés.

Wellington Sears made a line of cotton sailcloth separates in 17 colors that could be mixed and matched in many ways. The line included jackets, shorts, pants, skirts, and halter tops.

The pieces ranged in price from $4.95 - $9.95 each (about $45 - $91 in today's dollar) and were sold at Neiman Marcus and Peck and Peck.

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Weekend Eye Candy - Jacques Fath 1949

Pink silk faille evening coat by Jacques Fath, 1949. Looks like there is something in the sleeve hem to help hold it out. I wonder how many yards of fabric it took to make this?

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Vintage Hats - 1949

I've been thinking a lot about hats lately. My first bit of inspiration came from Jean and Valerie, the Idiosyncratic Fashionistas. I found their blog a couple of weeks ago while clicking around from here to there and was immediately entranced. I bookmarked the site and came back to it early one morning when the house was quiet and the sun was just starting to come up. Jean and Valerie delight me, and their blog has now become ensconced in my links list to your right.

Rose Valois

Hats, hats, Easter bonnets. Wide brimmed hats like this are a harbinger of Spring, aren't they? Even though it is still cold here in Boston, the sun is becoming stronger again, and I can see the beginnings of buds on the cherry tree outside my office window. Warmer weather is on it's way, I can feel it. And in honor of the spring to come, enjoy these gorgeous chapeaux from Spring 1949.

Claude St. Cyr

Paulette

Legroux Soeurs

Gilbert Orcel


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Jacques Fath Made in America - 1949

Parisian couturier Jacques Fath was known for his designs that glorified the female figure. In 1948, Fath signed an agreement with American manufacturer Joseph Halpert to produce a line of Made in America ready-to-wear clothing for women in the U.S. The line was carried in high end department stores like Lord & Taylor, Bonwit Teller, Julius Garfinkle, and Hudson's.

Here are 4 of the designs from the first collection produced for Spring of 1949.

This black Moygashel linen dress is accented with decorative black buttons at the shoulders and hips. Sold for $90 in 1949 (about $818 in today's dollar). Hat by John Frederics.

Left: A white pique ankle length dress is accented with pink satin shoulder straps and belt. Sold for $200 in 1949 (about $1818 in today's dollar).
Right: A stylized bow forms the collar of this white pique evening gown. Worn with a gold lizard belt and gold lizard gloves. Sold for $165 in 1949 (about $1500 in today's dollar). Jewels by David Webb.

Fath's love of asymmetry is used to great affect in this Moygashel linen dress. The skirt has a diagonal line of black buttons and bound buttonholes. The brown lining shows when the skirt panel is folded back. Hat by John Frederics.

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1949 Classic Beauty

A classic beauty from 1949 wears the "new" short hair and a black fox fur stole. I love the lighting from behind in this photo.

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Vintage Suits for Travel and Beyond

In 1949, one magazine suggests that when choosing a wardrobe for travel, you should spend the most on items you'll wear the most; on items that can be translated into your everyday life after the trip. Of course, in 1949, women dressed much more formally for travel than we do today, and a good suit was considered essential for a trip by plane, train, ship, or car.

John Perna of Simon Cohen fashioned this suit of wool gabardine and trimmed it with matching braid. Our traveler accessorizes it with white pigskin gloves, a Koret handbag, a Suzy helmet hat with separate veil that ties in the back, and a fur stole. The suit sold for $70 in 1949 (about $627 in today's dollar). Amelia Earhart luggage.

Here, the same suit worn to work after the trip with a silk scarf tucked into the neckline.

For a motoring trip, this woman wears a three piece ensemble of soft-toned wool plaid by Swansdown. She accessorizes it with a Roger Van S. leather shoulder bag, an Anglebasque beret, and leather gloves. The suit and coat each sold for $60 in 1949 (about $538 in today's dollar).

Here, she wears the same suit with a classic camel coat by Rutherford for a different look.

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Vintage Bras & Girdles - 1949

In the 1940's, nearly all advertisements and editorial features about lingerie were illustrated with drawings or paintings, not with live models. I'm not sure when this changed, but these little drawings from 1949 give us a clear look at the seaming used in various bras and girdles. The ones in pink have the added bonus of outlining a typical dress shape that would have been worn over the lingerie. Click the pictures for a larger view.

A. Exquisite Form bra with wrapped elastic straps to wear with a low-backed dress. Flexnit nylon leno girdle with a pretty shell stitched at the back.
B. Flexees All-in-one with embroidered nylon bra cups and nyralon satin and net lastique body.
C. Munsingwear rayon satin bra and nylon coated laton pantie girdle.

D. La Trique strapless bra in nylon elastic and a Femode nylon net and satin girdle.
E. Maiden Form rayon satin and lace bra with a Wispese elastic nylon lace pantie girdle.
F. Lady Marlene demi-cup long line bra in nylon satin with net frills and a nylon tissue batiste girdle by Smoothie Jr.

G. Venus nylon taffeta bra with lace edging and nylon leno and taffeta girdle with ruffle bottom.
H. Lovable rayon satin bra with a cut-away underarm for deep cut sleeveless garments is worn with a Slack-ees nylon pantie girdle.
I. Jantzen nylon taffeta bra with plastic fabric cups and a satin and power net panty girdle with high waist. Plastic fabric??? Maybe it was made to wear under a swimsuit???

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