grace: vintage dress

Showing posts with label vintage dress. Show all posts

Showing posts with label vintage dress. Show all posts

Off Balance

Three years ago, I paid several hundred dollars for high-tech eyeglasses - the most comfortable glasses I've ever worn. I have horrible vision, and really can't get along well without them. Along with the ultra-light polycarbonate lenses with their tri-focal progressive prescription, anti-glare coating and no-scratch finish came a lifetime guarantee that the lenses would be replaced for free if they ever did get scratched. Hey, leave it to me! I can do it!

I had an eye exam before Christmas, and the eye doctor said he would send my glasses in to have the lenses replaced, but I would have to get along with my old ones for a couple of weeks. I searched for them high and low, finally found them the other day, and turned my prized high-tech glasses over to my optometrist on Tuesday for repair......

Big mistake. My old clunkers are a different prescription with bi-focals instead of tri-focals. I cannot see my computer screen with these old glasses. I tried moving the monitor across to the other side of my desk. No good. So here I sit, with the monitor directly on top of my keyboard, wearing no glasses at all, and still struggling to see what I type. The old glasses are heavy and I end up with redness and pain across the bridge of my nose by the end of the day. I try to watch television and struggle to find just the right angle to tip my head so I can see the screen without too much bluriness. This leads to a crick in my neck, stiffness in my shoulders, and general crankiness on my part, all after 1 1/2 days. How will I survive 2 weeks?????????

So, here I sit, generally off balance with the world, and I fully expect to be walking crooked before I get my uber-glasses back. I will never take them for granted again. I love my high-tech miracle specs. "My precious..........."

Shown above from October 1963: A little black dress with matching coat by Italian designer Jole Veneziani. A wide band of black mink fur adorns the hem of the dress and peeks through slits in the coat. The model must have been asked to take off her glasses for the photo shoot.

Weekend Eye Candy - Jacques Fath Draped Dress

October 1946 - Jacques Fath couture draped crepe dress in two tones of grey. Yum.

How to Dress Well on Practically Nothing!

The October 1959 issue of Ladies Home Journal has a small month-to-month feature about dressing well on a budget. This is Mollie Farnham, a young Midwestern kindergarten teacher. The magazine notes that in the September issue, Mollie had purchased a camel skirt and beige blouse, and then knitted a cardigan sweater to go with them. In this issue, Mollie shops for her "all-important fall-and-winter investment: a coat." Since she already had a white dressy coat and an evening cover-up, Mollie needed a good serviceable coat for everyday wear.

She shops carefully, and considers several options, but chooses this black and white tweed coat by Gordon Corpuel for $35.00 ($260.00 today). "Mollie's new coat has a flattering cowl collar, is warmly lined in furry black Orlon. The black and white tweed will go well with her beige separates from last month as well as another of her favorite colors: blue." She then adds a black handbag for $3.00 ($23.00 today). She can now alternate the coat and purse with beige or black shoes, and white, beige, or chamois gloves.
Her second accessory purchase is a hat for $3.95 ($30.00 today) . "Mollie rarely wears a hat to school during the week, but for Sundays and special occasions she does. The coat takes on a special occasion look when accessorized with her new turquoise hat, pearls, and white gloves."

Lastly, if Mollie has time and a few extra dollars at the end of the month, she'll invest in some blue wool to sew this basic sheath dress from Vogue Basic Design #3000.

The focus here is on investing in practical but versatile basics that you can accent in different ways with accessories. Mollie's coat wardrobe is complete with one tweed for everyday, a white dressier version, and an evening wrap. How many coats are in your closet? How many dollars have you invested in trendy styles, inexpensive fabrics, or unusual colors that don't work for everyday? Isn't it wiser in today's economy to spend more money on one practical coat in a high quality fabric and basic color that can be worn for years? A change of accessories changes the look in a few seconds.

Our mothers and grandmothers got along with far less clothing than we do today. Each piece of clothing was a carefully considered investment that was meant to last for several years, not several months. Think about it this way. How big are the closets in most houses built in the 40's and 50's?

Weekend Eye Candy - Jackie Kennedy

Since this week has been so focused on the election, I thought a few photos of the Kennedys out on the campaign trail in 1959 might be fun. The photo above shows the Kennedys with then Vice President Richard Nixon.

Here, they share a cup of coffee at a diner in Oregon. Same dress, different accessories.

The dress? A grey wool knit overblouse dress by Givenchy Boutique Fall 1959. This is one of the styles that Jackie made so popular in America. The dress has a thin silk bodice, which doesn't add bulk under the overblouse, that likely buttons up the back.

Vintage Designer Puzzle - Who is Rappi?

During my years as a seller of vintage clothing, I've run into this label a few times, but I can never find any information about this designer or design house. All of the garments I've had by Rappi have been from the 50's and 60's, and all but one were cocktail or evening dresses.

So, I'm sending out a plea to the vintage community. If anyone knows anything about Rappi, please comment here or contact me through the website.

UPDATE: You'll find some great information about Rappi in the comments. This photo of her comes from a vintage sewing pattern.

Weekend Eye Candy - Balenciaga

I am in love.

Grey wool jersey dress by Balenciaga from Spring 1950.

Vintage Dresses - in Black Velvet

I love the waist detail of this dress from 1956. 4 rows of satin cording with bows visually accent the tiny waist compared to the flare of the hips and bust. This dress was featured in the August 1956 issue of Glamour magazine and shows St. Louis debutante Jean Hamilton wearing a dress by Doris Dodson Juniors. The dress was about $18 in 1956 ($142 today). She wears a Therese Ahrens bandeaux hat and carries an Ingber purse.

You'll see the same waist accent in this early 60's velvet cocktail dress available at www.coutureallure.com. No bows, but this one's got the added allure of a large satin rose set off to the side. Click the picture to see the details.

Vintage Dresses - In Red!

Red is the color of fire and blood, and is a very emotionally intense color. This is why it is associated with passion, desire, and love. Studies show that red can have a physical effect, increasing the rate of respiration and raising blood pressure. Wear red when you want to stand out from the crowd and be noticed.

The two dresses shown above, from 1955, are perfect examples of how to get noticed in a sea of black cocktail dresses during the holiday party season. Do you dare?

Get the look with this 1950's red taffeta bubble hem dress, just listed on our website! Click the picture to see the details.

Full skirts not your style? How about this body conscious early 60's evening gown, also available at our website. Click the picture to see the listing.

If allover red is too much for your taste, add a pop of color with your accessories. This 1940's Holzman box purse is just the thing. Available at our website. Click the picture to see the details.

There are lots of red options at www.coutureallure.com. It's time to add some passion to your wardrobe!

Fall 1975 Fashion

Is it just me, or are these clothes unflattering, and in some cases, just plain ugly? These images are all from the July/August 1975 issue of Vogue Pattern magazine. I've always found Vogue patterns to be fashion forward, so these styles were on trend for 1975. But I just can't get excited about these clothes.

Maybe its because I've already had to deal with not liking these styles once in my life during my 20's. I hated the fashions that were in the stores back then, and always felt unhappy with my wardrobe. But what do you think? Are these styles great, or not so much?

Hippie Fashion Revival

The musical "Hair" is in revival Off-Broadway in New York, and apparently has been a smash. It closes this weekend, but rumors are that it may move to Broadway this winter. Who knows?

What I do know is that Bohemian hippie fashion is back......again. Indian gauze prints, layers, patchwork, fringed leather, vests, long strands of beads, and piles of bangle bracelets - it's all good. The above photo shows the current cast of Hair in Central Park.

Get the look with these authentic 1970's dresses, now available for one week at Couture Allure on EBay. Click the picture to see the listing:

See all of our Bohemian Luxury Collection, available for one week only.

1950 Fashion Silhouette #4 Bell-Shaped

The full skirt - introduced by Dior after the war with his New Look collection, and worn into the early 60's. This dress is a shirtwaist with very full sleeves to complement the fullness of the skirt. The full sleeves are set onto a dropped shoulder line, which makes the dress look more grown-up. A full gathered sleeve set into a normal armsceye might make this dress look too girlish.

This dress was made from Simplicity pattern 8269. The model is wearing a wide belt, which again accentuates that narrow tiny waist and wide curving hips. She has on a tiny pillbox style hat with a full veil covering her face. Here's a look at the back view:

Get the look with this taffeta check dress available in our EBay store. It's got the same dropped shoulder line, the same full skirt, the same Peter Pan collar, the same shirtwaist styling. But this one comes from a high-end Boston boutique named Jay's. Click the pic to see the listing!

1950 Fashion Silhouette #3 Tubular

Of course, we would call this "wiggle" today, but the Fall-Winter 1950 issue of Simplicity pattern magazine defines this as a Tubular Silhouette. Doesn't sound all that attractive or complimentary to me. Since, the 1980's, a tube dress is considered one that is made from a circular knit tube that is very stretchy and tiny so it stays on and contours to your curves.

But back to this outfit. The article states the smooth sculptured look of the sheath dress is the most important of all the evening silhouettes for 1950. And the most sexy, I daresay. This is actually two pieces - a satin tank top made from Simplicity pattern 3263, and a super slim velvet skirt made from Simplicity pattern 2937. So, is the skirt really that skinny at the knees? Not according to the back sketch on the pattern envelope. Honey, you know once the fashion stylist gets the model pinned into that skirt, she's not walking anywhere! But it sure makes her hips look super curvy, doesn't it?

That tank top is darted to fit the waist though.

The thing I love best in this photo is those lace gauntlet gloves. They are by Aris, and wouldn't they be perfect for this season's focus on all things lace for evening? Oh la la!

1961 Eva Rosencrans for Ben Reig Evening Gown

Eva Rosencrans worked in partnership with her sister-in-law, Nettie Rosenstein in a wholesale business named Nettie Rosenstein starting in 1931. They worked by draping dresses directly on medium sized live models, which meant that their designs flattered average American women. Another unique aspect of the business was that each dress was sewn by one seamstress from start to finish, rather than by assembly line. They kept the line exclusive by only selling to one store per city.

In 1961, Nettie made the decision to leave the clothing business in order to concentrate on accessories. At this time, Eva Rosencrans went to design for Ben Reig. She was known for her luxurious but simple designs. This evening gown was featured in the September 15, 1961 issue of Vogue magazine, and was probably from her first line for Ben Reig.

"Liquid black: silk evening dress from the Ben Reig collection, designed by Eva Rosencrans." The dress has a draped bodice with straps that come from the side seams below the bust, criss-cross at the upper edge of the bodice and then encircle the neck. The skirt is softly gathered onto the waist and a tulip slit shows the leg from the knee to the hem. Love those long black kid gloves and the full length mink draped casually over the chair. The model is not wearing a hat, but has long dramatic chandelier earrings.

Get the look with this 1950's black velvet cocktail dress with its halter strap that can be worn many ways. Available at our website. Click the picture to see the listing.

The Correct Foundation Garments for 1950s Dresses #4

The final post in our series on correct foundation garments ends with a focus on sleek thighs. "Study the liquid lines of the dresses - they're newest in soft, covered-up wools for day-into-party wear. The brilliant red colorings (not for the timid) and subtly revealing cut (nice for the shapely) demand the firmest sort of discipline for hips and thighs. Pretties to aid and abet: long-legged panty girdles to comfortably coax and wheedle you into the willowy-wand shape that's needed."

The dress on the left has a flounce skirt in a printed wool/orlon jersey. The dress, by California Girl, sold for $30 (about $228 today) was sold at Hahne & Co., Newark, and Haggarty's, Los Angeles. Her long necklace is by D'Arlan.

Under this dress, the model is wearing a Youthcraft panty girdle with red stripes on white and a Madenform cotton bra.

The solid red dress on the right by Jonathan Logan is in wool crepe. This dress sold for $15 (about $115 today) and was available at Lord & Taylor, May Co., and The Broadway. She wears a Coro necklace.

Under this dress, the model is wearing a Jantzen panty girdle of nylon and Lastex with a Jantzen cotton bra.

I hope you've enjoyed this series of articles. Remember, these photos all came from Seventeen magazine - so proper foundation garments were expected to be worn by young girls, not just grown women. Can you imagine wearing a girdle to high school?

The Correct Foundation Garments for 1950s Dresses #3

Today's focus is on smooth hips required when wearing a dress with a lowered waist. "Shimmy bodices that drop their waists down to hip-level...or lower, then meet rippling, flounced skirts. The silhouette-makers needed: hip-firming girdles, rounded bras."

The dress on the left has a gathered flared skirt below a dropped waist. It is by Youth Fair and sold for $15 in 1958 (about $112 today). It sold at Abraham & Strauss, Brooklyn and Rich's, Atlanta. The model wears a Castlecliff pin on her collar.

Under this dress, she is wearing a Hollywood Vassarette open bottom girdle with double panels of power net at the back and sides and a front V-shaped panel of nylon satin overlaid with point d'esprit lace. The Hollywood Vassarette bra is in nylon with lace cups.

The dress on the right by Teena Paige has a dropped waist, permanent pleated skirt and a sailor collar. It sold for $18 (about $135 today) and was available at Altman's, New York and Macy's, San Francisco. The model wears a Castlecliff pin on the collar.

Under this dress, the model is wearing a Peter Pan panty girdle of nylon power net woven in elastic stripes. The Peter Pan cotton bra has contour cups.

The Correct Foundation Garments for 1950s Dresses #2

Continuing the series on the correct foundation garments, today we have two party dresses from 1958. The focus on today's spread is the tiny waist needed with fuller skirts. "Take a look at the luscious, jewel-toned dresses. See how their sculptured bodices and dome-shaped skirts show off your middle? They call, obviously, for a trim mid-section of your own."

The green satin dress on the left is a "princess sculptured" dress with self-fabric roses at the neckline and hem by Parklane, which was offered at Franklin Simon, New York and Jordan Marsh, Boston. The dress sold for about $30 ($225 today).

Under the green dress, the model is wearing a Formaid of Boston torso bra that molds from bosom to hips. With that, she wears a Saramac petticoat. Note that the petticoat has a flat panel from waist to hips and the long-line bra is worn over it.

The blue jacquard dress on the right has a "closely carved bodice and dome skirt that opens in a back pleat". This dress is by Carol Rodgers and sold for about $13 ($97 today). This dress was available at Burdine's, Miami and Altman's, New York. The skirt of this dress likely has the stiff Pellon interfacing, as the model is not wearing a crinoline under it.

Under the blue dress, the model is wearing a Sarong Two nylon girdle that trims the waist with a high elastic waistband. Crisscross front with open bottom gives walking ease. Power net sides and satin elastic back. She is also wearing a Perma-lift strapless cotton contour bra.

The Correct Foundation Garments for 1950s Dresses #1

If you've ever purchased a vintage dress and wondered why it doesn't fit correctly, maybe you're not wearing the proper foundation garments. Prior to the late 1960's, clothing was styled and cut with the understanding that women would be wearing girdles and shapers underneath. In the October 1958 Seventeen magazine, there is a wonderful editorial spread photographed by Frencesco Scavullo that illustrates what type of foundation garments work best with several dress styles. I'll be featuring the photos and information from this spread this week.

The magazine is referring to these as "shaft dresses" (never heard that term before). "Newest shape for a shaft to take - the high-rise Empire waist, which looks prettiest over a softly rounded bosom, asks just supple control from there down."

The red dress is by Lanz in a lined rayon crepe. See that band across the bust? The magazine calls this a "bosom yoke" and it drops to a V-neck with a bow in the back. The dress was about $40 (about $298 today), and was sold at Bonwit Teller, New York, Vandervoort's, St. Louis, and The Crescent, Spokane. The model is wearing red DeLiso Debs shoes.

Under the red dress, the model is wearing a Formfit nylon bra with circle-stitched lace cups and a Formfit nylon elastic net panty girdle with a wide waistband and satin elastic vertical stretch panels front and back.

The model on the right in the top photo is wearing a blue wool jersey "shaft dress" by Jerry Greenwald. The front is gathered into a satin band at the Empire waist. In back, the dress is slit from V necline to hem, revealing a satin underslip. This dress also sold for about $40 and was available at Saks Fifth Avenue. That's a long, skinny brooch by Castlecliff pinned to the center of the satin band and the shoes are by Capezio.

Under the blue dress, the model is wearing a Lovable "lightweight all-in-one for a long, slim line with easy control." Made of Helance nylon yarn with embroidered cotton broadcloth cups. This appears to be an open-bottom style.

1958 Simplicity Pattern Ad

With all the interest lately in vintage patterns and sewing, I thought you'd like to see an ad for Simplicity Patterns from the October 1958 Seventeen magazine I've been posting about. Featured here is Simplicity pattern 2687.

The ad copy states, "You can see the admiration in his eyes...your dress is terrific! And when you tell him you made it yourself, he'll be even prouder.

Sewing is such a wonderful way to have the color, the fabric, the style that does the most for you. (The kind of clothes men notice.) And you can expect even your first dress to turn out perfectly with Simplicity Printed Patterns. They're marked piece by piece with such easy-to-follow directions, it's like having an expert to help you at every step.

What fun to have a divine new dress for every dance without feeling extravagant! And there are hundreds of Simplicity styles to choose from. You'd hardly believe it, but both dresses here are made from the same Simplicity Pattern, No. 2687."

All I have to say is, "Yes, Virginia, butt bows did exist before the 1980's!

1958 Jonathan Logan Dress

Here is another ad from the October 1958 Seventeen magazine. What girl wouldn't want to wear this to all her holiday dances and parties? Jonathan Logan is a favorite label of mine. I find his dresses quite frequently, which leads me to believe that his dresses were considered special enough to save for years.

The ad copy says, "Pure enchantment...in pure silk faille. The demure back-buttoned jacket hides a decolletee dress that swoops out prettily from a tiny waist. Green, blue, black, red. $29.95" The ad also states that the dress was available at Lord & Taylor, so you know this was a high quality label in the 50's. $29.95 in 1958 equates to about $225 today.

The model is wearing a matching bandeaux hat with a green bow on the top of the head. The dress has a matching sash type belt with a large round fabric covered buckle. The waist length bolero jacket has a V notch at the front hem and a Peter Pan collar. It buttons up the back. The model is wearing black patent kitten heels in the original photo. And I'm sure there is a stiff crinoline under that dress, although it is not overly full so the pleats hold their shape.

I think I've sold this dress in black before. I wish I could find it again. But you can get the look with this emerald green party dress available at www.coutureallure.com.

Another 1958 Teena Paige Dress

3 pages away from the ad I posted yesterday, there is a second Teena Paige dress ad, this one for The White House in San Francisco. The ad copy states, "Basketweave textured 100% wool Blouson Sheath with face framing collar. Novelty pin accents tab. In red, royal, copper. $17.95" That's $134.00 today.

This is another dress that I would have dated as early 60's if I came across it today. I associate that rolled collar with the 60's, but I've learned something! The dress bodice has little faux pocket flaps below the bustline. The one shown has a gold Maltese cross pin, which came with the dress. The model is wearing short white gloves and a bronze wide bangle bracelet with matching earrings.

There is a coupon attached to order the dress which states, "Please add 40 cents for postage and handling." That works out to $2.98 in today's dollar. Wake up call to the USPS!!!!! Today, it would cost us $10-$15 to have this dress shipped from California. Jeez.

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