grace: tina leser

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Summer Stripes, 1956

Nothing feels more summer-y than stripes. Beachy, breezy, and nautical, stripes are always in style. These photos are all from 1956.

Above: Brigance of Sportsmaker uses blue and white striped cotton jersey for a bathing suit with matching straight beach shirt that gets belted for added shape. Set sold for $43 in 1956 (about $345 in today's dollar.)

Claire McCardell cotton sateen beach poncho to wear over a swimsuit or shorts. Red, green, and yellow. Sold for $20 in 1956 (about $160 in today's dollar.)

Tina Leser glazed cotton dress in bold yellow and white stripes. Sold for $50 in 1956 (about $401 in today's dollar.)

Sir James rayon sunsuit in navy and gold stripes with brass buckles and buttons. Sold for $13 in 1956 (about $104 in today's dollar.)

Helga silk/cotton blend dress in blue, white, and coral. The pleats in the skirt change the look of the stripes. Sold for $70 in 1956 (about $561 in today's dollar.)

Do you love to wear stripes? Which is your favorite?

Tina Leser Beach Ensemble, 1945

Tina Leser was well known for her use of exotic fabrics and style influences from around the world. During the WWII years, however, her travels were limited and so were her fabric choices. Leser was still able to find inspiration, though, and here she uses simple white jersey for an exotic beach look. The two piece swimsuit has a twisted bandeaux top and came with a long wrap-around skirt. The set sold for $42 in 1945 (about $509 in today's dollar.)

Tina Leser Sundress - 1945

Tina Leser was well known for her use of exotic fabrics and style influences from around the world. During the WWII years, however, her travels were limited and so were her fabric choices. Leser was still able to find inspiration at home, though, and this dress is one example. Here, she uses a traditional American fabric - chambray stripe and fashions it into a sweet sundress with a sarong influenced one shoulder design.

Chambray is a lightweight cotton fabric with a denim look, which combines a colored yarn with an undyed yarn in a plain weave. Chambray was originally used for workingmen's blue shirts, from which comes the term blue-collar worker.

The add states this is "Aphrodite - Tina Leser's Grecian Goddess sun dress in No-Fade Chambray, striped and plain. White stripes on blue, chartreuse or rose." This dress also gives us an example of working within the fabric restrictions of the war years. The skirt is shorter, and by making the bodice with just one strap, Leser is able to use the extra fabric for a ruffle on the skirt front. Ingenious! Sold for $19.95 exclusively at Bonwit Teller in 1945 (about $238.00 in today's dollar). That $19.95 would have been out of reach to most women during the war, but I'll bet many women took inspiration from Leser's use of chambray and made their own versions with inexpensive yard goods.

By the way, notice the long beaded necklace wrapped around and around the wrist to made a statement bracelet. Just another example of war-time ingenuity!

New at Couture Allure - Vintage Dresses

New this week at Couture Allure are some lovely vintage party dresses and vintage dresses by important American designers. Here is a small sampling:

This 1950's party dress is new, old stock with the tags still attached. It features shadow printed pink poppies on chiffon and taffeta.

Who doesn't enjoy being a girl from time to time? This 1950's party dress by Karen Stark for Harvey Berin is fashioned of pale pink organza with flocking, embroidery, and lace.

We love these vintage dress and coat sets, and they never last long. This 1960's set is fashioned of aqua and gold brocade and is perfect for an evening on the town.

Another 1960's dress and coat set, this time in silk organza by Malcolm Starr. This is girly pink pop art!

We listed dresses by three important American sportswear designers this week. Claire McCardell, Tina Leser, and Greta Plattry were all well known for their fabulous talent. The Claire McCardell dress sold in less than 24 hours and is on it's way to a museum, but you still have a chance to grab the other two!

This early 1950's dress is by Tina Leser. She employed an asymmetric drape on the skirt to emulate a sarong. This dress is in near mint condition and appears to have never been worn.

How about a sweet silk dress with a hood for your next vacation? This 1950's dress is by Greta Plattry and has a wonderful full skirt.

We also listed a 1960's Victoria Royal beaded gown, a 1950's Ben Zuckerman suit, and a 1960's Robert Courtney silk dress, among others. Check the What's New tab at our website to see it all!

1957 Vintage Swimsuits - Tina Leser, Givenchy, and Polly Hornburg

Gorgeous swimwear from 1957:

Tina Leser was one of the premier American sportswear designers in the 1940's and 50's. Here she fashions a skirted halter swimsuit entirely in yellow cotton pleats. Each pleat is edged with white loop braid. This suit sold for $35.00 (about $272.00 in today's dollar) at Bonwit Teller, Julius Garfinkle, and Bullock's-Wilshire. In my opinion, it's worth every penny.

I had no idea Hubert de Givenchy designed swimwear. This black skirted suit is his design for Jantzen. Made of acetate and nylon woven with Lastex, the suit sold for $25.00 (about $194.00 in today's dollar). The turban is by Adolfo.

My favorite of today's suits, this Catalina maillot is designed to emulate the styling of blue jeans. Navy blue orlon with Lastex is topstitched with contrasting thread and rivets decorate the front. Sold for $20.00 (about $155.00 in today's dollar).

Polly Hornburg was a native Bermudian who designed play clothes and swimwear for her 6 Calypso stores in Bermuda and Jamaica, as well as for stores all over the US. She was also known for designing one piece suits for skin-diving. Long sleeved and long legged, this elasticized cotton knit would keep you warmer in deeper waters. The high neckline dips to a deep V in the back, which I figure makes this suit more sexy than practical, but I'm not a diver, so what do I know? Sold for $30.00 (about $233.00 in today's dollar).