Carolyn Schnurer Swimsuits, 1955

Carolyn Schnurer began her design career in 1940 working for her husband's bathing suit company, Burt Schnurer, Inc. It's no wonder that as the years progressed, she continued to feature bathing suits every year. In 1955, Schnurer designed several suits with low-cut back treatments. I find it interesting how changing the strap placement entirely changes to look of the suit.

1. Everglaze rayon crash in a black and white embroidered design. The straps in back close with silver buttons. Sold for $30 in 1955 (about $244 in today's dollar.)
2. Black nylon velvet suit. Sold for $28 in 1955 (about $228 in today's dollar.)

3. Cotton pique embroidered with brown flowers with brown cotton sateen straps. Sold for $23 in 1955 (about $187 in today's dollar.)
4. Blue, black, and white gingham checks in a blend of acetate, cotton, and elastic. Sold for $23 in 1955 (about $187 in today's dollar.)

5. Brown and white striped wool and Lastex jersey. This one is my favorite of all. Sold for $18 in 1955 (about $146 in today's dollar.)

Here's the same suit in a color photo. I'll bet this look influenced Rudi Gernreich about 10 years later.

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Carolyn Schnurer

Carolyn Schnurer was a well known designer of casual clothing in the 1940's and 50's. She was an American designer who filled the void left by the absence of Paris couture during the war years. She often based entire collections on the fabrics and ethnic designs of foreign countries that she traveled to. She would take elements of foreign dress and adapt them to typical American silhouettes. For instance, her Japanese collection featured kimono sleeves or obi sashes on full skirted dresses. Here, three Schnurer designs.

From 1954, a full skirted dress draws inspiration from Europe with its contrasting apron panel on the skirt front.

From 1949, an off-shoulder cotton dress with scattered polka dot print.

From 1949, a black wool knit tube top is worn with a flocked cotton full skirt. The top came with removeable straps.

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1945 Bare Midriffs

It's 1945, the war is coming to an end, and your mama (or grandmama) is sporting a bare midriff. The bare midriff became popular for several reasons.

- It was all the rage in Hollywood, with film stars showing a peek of skin in evening gowns and resort wear.

- The two piece swimsuit had become acceptable by now.

- Wartime L-85 restrictions meant you were showing your patriotism by wearing less fabric!

Rayon bra top and skirt-like shorts for beach or play can be topped with the sharkskin beachcoat. All pieces by Junior Miss of California and sold by Jordan Marsh.

A straight skirt with deep trouser pleats with a cutaway halter bodice that is attached at the back by Huxley. Fashioned from cocoa brown rayon with the look and feel of linen.

Louella Ballerino two piece swimsuit in a California Authentics fabric.

At the top: Short peasant tops with puffed sleeves are matched to full skirts. Both sets designed by Carolyn Schnurer. At center: A tie-front top with matching skirt by Huxley.

Claire McCardell works a long sleeved top with matching wrap skirt in black wool jersey. The skirt has big pockets and white top-stitching accents both pieces.

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Masterful Seaming

Here is a deceptively simple 1940's playsuit by well known sportswear designer Carolyn Schnurer. This suit appears to be a straight cut bodice with a flared skirt. But take a closer look at how the designer has attached that skirt.

See those intricate zig-zag seams at the waist? If you've ever tried to sew a V neckline, you know how difficult it is to get these V pointed seams to lie perfectly flat. And yet, here are several of them all the way around the waistline! And there's more...

Additional seams extend diagonally up from the center front seam to the bustline. These seams draw the eye in to the center waist and help give the illusion of a slender middle.

None of these decorative seams is necessary to the finished garment, and they certainly added to the difficulty of manufacture and cost, but I think this playsuit is much more interesting and effective with them. Don't you?

See this playsuit and more at Couture Allure Vintage Fashion .

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