Drew Barrymore Rocks It

There's been a lot of blog chatter about Drew Barrymore's hair at the 2009 Golden Globe awards held this past Sunday. Most reviews and comments seem to be along the lines of, "What was she thinking?" The Fug gals even said she looked like she was shot out of a cannon.

You know what? I LOVE this look! Now maybe it's because I spend my days immersed in the past. Or maybe it's because I always side with the underdog. But on a night when everyone's dress looked the same, and everyone's hair was "safe", Drew really rocked this look, straight out of the mid 1960's. Drew, don't listen to the naysayers! There are those of us who understand!

The following images are all from Vogue, October 1964. See what I mean?

How about you? Did you love or hate Drew's hair?

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1964 Bill Blass Evening Gown with Hat

Yes, the answer to Saturday's quiz is Bill Blass.

"A new incandescence of sharp-contrast colors, Bill Blass couples vivid Moroccan rose with saffron in cool-touch textured silk. Shapes them into a new look for after-dark drama, inspired by the mystery of Morocco and the native Caftan."

At this point, in 1964, Blass was the vice-president of Maurice Rentner and his name was on the label. He bought the company in 1967. It is interesting to see that as early as 3 years before buying Maurice Rentner, he was promoting himself and his name by joining with Cover Girl for their advertisements. There is no mention of Maurice Rentner in the ad.

Vivid colors such as these are just starting to show up in fashion, and will become all the rage in a couple of years time. It is interesting that Blass uses them for evening.

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Weekend Eye Candy - And a Quiz

From the October 1964 issue of Vogue magazine. This photo is part of an ad for Cover Girl make-up. The photo was taken by Richard Avedon.

But who designed the hat? Answer on Monday!

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Valentino Beaded Suit 1964

Valentino Garavani was born in Italy in 1932. He grew up wanting to study art and design, and moved to Paris at age 17, where he studied at the Ecole des Beaux Arts and the school of the Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne. He then apprenticed at Jean Desses and Guy Laroche. With a solid background in French couture, he returned to Rome in 1959 and opened his own atelier.

Rome in the early 60's was a playground for the jet-set. Elizabeth Taylor, Sophia Loren, and Gina Lollobridgida were all there working on films. Elizabeth Taylor visited Valentino's atelier in 1960 while filming Spartacus, and began a friendship and fashion collaboration that has spanned the decades.

In addition to Hollywood actresses, Valentino's first fashion shows were also attended by Parisian society women whom Valentino had met during his years there. His designs were met with favorable fashion press, and a couture dynasty began.

The beaded suit shown above was featured in the October 1964 issue of Vogue magazine. "Valentino's night ideas - dazzling, provocative, with some of the impish dash of his day clothes. Valentino's spectacular black suit, covered entirely in beads. All around the jacket, including cuffs - loopy bead fringe. The blouse, sleeveless black velvet."

Gorgeous, isn't it?

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Valentino Suit 1964

More Italian couture, this time from Valentino, as pictured in the October 1964 issue of Vogue magazine. Valentino was a great favorite of Diana Vreeland, editor-in-chief of Vogue, and this issue features several pages of his fashions.

"The guaglione ideas of Valentino, suggesting a tough little Italian boy - sassy and adorable. A suit with a pullover in swaggering checks of grey and khaki wool; high pockets, a loose buttoned belt; short swinging grey skirt with panels front and back. With it, a khaki turtleneck blouse, deep round boy-cap of checks."

I had to look it up in the dictionary. Guaglione: Boy, young boy, frivolous and unreliable person (adj) funny, playful, irresponsible. This suit does show the young look just starting to emerge in fashion, which will become ubiquitous by 1968.

This is not a traditional jacket that buttons up the front, but rather a pullover top with a polo style neckline in heavy tweed. The turtleneck, up to now considered a casual look, is paired here with a suit - another young boyish touch. The belt is worn loose and slouchy. And that newsboy style brimmed hat!

This suit was available in America at Lord & Taylor, probably as copies made from the original purchased by the store.

More about Valentino over the next two days.

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Galitzine Palazzo Pajamas 1964

As mentioned yesterday, Galitzine is most famous for introducing palazzo pants in 1960, and here we see one of the earliest incarnations as shown in the October 1964 issue of Vogue magazine. Named "Palazzo Pyjamas" by Diana Vreeland, they were a relaxed but sophisticated evening look.

Princess Irene Galitzine was born in Russia, but her family fled to Rome during the Russian Revolution when she was only 1 year old. She studied art and design in Rome, and then turned to fashion. She worked for the Fontana sisters for three years as an apprentice. There are conflicting reports as to when she started her own house with dates ranging from 1946 - 1949.

Success came when Galitzine was given the pretigious "Filene's Young Talent" award in Boston in 1959, and her designs were introduced to America. She was voted "Designer of the Year" by the Italian press in 1962 and given the "Sunday Times International Fashion Award" in 1965.

Galitzine closed her house in the late 60's, but reopened 1970. Princess Galitzine died in October 2006. Her house is still in operation today.

Shown above are her palazzo pyjamas in black matelasse. "Softened folds at the neck continue under the short top tier, and flare to a tunic over wide pants. The back - bared to the waist. In America at Lord & Taylor." There is a wide black satin ribbon sash at the waist, tied in a big bow at the front. The model wears little jeweled evening slippers.

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1964 Galitzine Suit

My, how things have changed in 3 years! Vogue magazine is showing Italian fashion - here a suit by Galitzine. We clearly see a movement towards a more youthful look. The model's pose is more casual, she wears boots, and look at that hair!

"Italian clothes are alive with ideas, with exuberance, and a beautiful sense of adventure. Imagination fires all. Living skirts with gores, godets. Broader shoulders, batwing tops. Important belts. Marvelous young dash." Clothes are becoming looser and more relaxed. Skirts are not as tight as a few seasons previous, and hem are becoming gradually shorter. Armholes and shoulders are not fit so tightly to the body.

There are changes evident in the magazine credits, too. No longer do we see the words "copied" or "adapted". While Italian garments were copied for the American market, no mention of the company who made the copies is given. Credit is given for the accessories, and the hair and make-up stylists.

"The suit, white-beige and all roundness - the collar, slightly broader shoulder, cuffs. The gaiters - a Galitzine idea for most of her suits - of Corfam, piped in white. Suit, in America at Lord & Taylor. Hat by Canessa. From the Elizabeth Arden Rome Salon: the coiffures by Imo; make-up by Pablo."

Galitzine, who is acknowledged as the designer who gave us the palazzo pant, shows a youthful boot, an idea which will become a fashion basic within a few years. And she does it in Corfam imitation leather, a brand new product which had just been invented by DuPont.

Get the look with this vintage 1960's glen plaid wool suit available in our EBay store. Click the picture to see the listing.



Now, back to that sable trimmed suit I posted on Saturday. Looks 50's or 60's, doesn't it? It's actually a current suit by Italian design house Brioni, from their Fall 2008 collection, but is clearly influenced by a Givenchy coat from 1963. For a better view of the Givenchy coat, take a look at the cover of L'Officiel October 1963 magazine, available from Paper Pursuits.

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