grace: 1963

Showing posts with label 1963. Show all posts

Adele Simpson's Turkish Delight Collection, 1963

Designer Adele Simpson, shown above, was age 60 when she designed her Turkish Delight Collection for spring, 1963. Having just returned from world-wide travels, Simpson designed the collection around her time spent in Istanbul.

The collection included prints and embroideries inspired by treasures the designer purchased while in Turkey.

Fine silks, cottons, linens, and wools were used and evening gowns were elaborately beaded.

But all was not exotic. Simpson was also inspired by her travels to create a collection of basic pieces that could be mixed-and-matched and worn for more than one occasion. Above, a short tan coat of Moygashel linen is worn with a matching wrap skirt over a black silk matte jersey dress. The dress is worn here as a shell, but can emerge from under the coat and skirt and be worn for cocktails or dinner later in the day.

Here, a 3-piece travel suit by Simpson in Barbacane, a newly introduced fabric from Staron that was a blend of silk and cotton woven to look like linen without the wrinkles.

Easter 1963

When I was a child, my mother would dress me and my sisters all alike on Easter. We would always make a big impression at church, especially after we had had our fill of chocolate eggs and jelly beans. Here I am with 3 of my sisters (the youngest wasn't born yet) in 1963 or 64. I'm the tall one in the back. The dresses were blue gingham with white lace around the skirt. We had to wear them with itchy scratchy crinoline slips. And of course, we all had matching white patent shoes and ankle socks. I think mom let us each choose a different white patent purse that year.

Happy Easter to you all, especially to my family! Ah, the memories.

Teal Traina - 1963

I love these ads from Bergdorf Goodman. Whoever was writing their copy at the time (1963) had a wonderful way with words. "The Quick Black Costume....It says "news" almost before you can blink. It dashes its way into summer free of sleeves, and full of the brio a costume must have this season. The crisp Swiss-cotton ottoman was clipped and carved for us by Teal Traina with a back-flashing jacket that swings on over the easy, camisoled dress. In brisk black, frosted mocha, and a very newsy white." Perfection.

Teal Traina was Anthony Traina's nephew. Anthony Traina was Norman Norell's financial partner. Geoffrey Beene was a designer at Teal Traina from 1958-63, so it is likely this delightful outfit was his. I have a similar Teal Traina ensemble in cream silk that is currently at the cleaners. Coming soon to Couture Allure! BTW, this outfit sold for $145 in 1963 (about $1033 in today's dollar.)

Audrey Hepburn in Givenchy Eveningwear, 1963

Yesterday, we looked at Audrey Hepburn in daywear from Givenchy's line for Spring, 1963. Today, she wears evening gowns from the same collection. The wonderful and imaginative hair designs are by Alexandré. The first photo is one of my favorites of Audrey.

Hepburn poses with her husband Mel Ferrer in a pink tulle confection.
The tulle cocoons intricate beading and embroidery.
A gossamer white silk tulle stole adds another layer of fantasy.

Blue cloqué silk déshabillé that falls in loose folds to a slight train at the back.

White lace with appliqued mauve, pink, yellow and blue silk daisies, then beaded and embroidered in gilt thread and sequins. Don't you wish this photo was in color?

Vivid yellow silk shantung with woven-in dots. The strapless neckline blooms like a flower.

Pink cloqué silk wrapped gown that exposes a bit of leg in front and has a tiny train at back.

All photos by Bert Stern.

Audrey Hepburn Wears Givenchy, 1963

White with black tweed suit with a black silk twill cowl neck blouse and white hat.

Just before beginning filming of "My Fair Lady", Audrey Hepburn posed for these photos in clothing from Hubert de Givenchy's line for Spring 1963. Hepburn wore Givenchy exclusively after he designed the costumes for her 1954 film "Sabrina". Before meeting the designer, and before her career exploded, the actress said she still wore homemade dresses.

Hepburn's normal wardrobe consisted of 3 day suits, two in beige or gray and one in black, coats that would last for several seasons, and several late-day and evening dresses for use when she was working. At home in Switzerland, she wore pants and sweaters. After work, she wore a déshabillé, or dresssing gown, to relax in.

Whether for day or evening, Audrey Hepburn had a sure eye for fashion, and she had a thorough understanding of proportion and of her image in Givenchy designs. Here, her choices for daywear from the line. Tomorrow, we'll look at eveningwear. All clothing by Givenchy, Spring 1963. Hair by Alexandré.

Pink tweed suit with a deeper pink linen overblouse and wide belt.

Beige jersey dress with a pseudo-overblouse that is cut on the bias
and fastens with buttons at the sides.

9/10 length white gabardine coat shaped close to the body in front
and loose in the back is worn over a brown silk linen dress with cap sleeves.

Short dinner dress in yellow silk with beaded clusters.

All photos by Bert Stern.

The Look of Evening Gowns - 1963

Today, exquisite evening gowns, all from the Fall of 1963. Enjoy!

Silver metallic brocade gown by Jr. Theme.

Malcolm Starr white satin gown with green beaded bodice.

Minuet cotton/silk blend ottoman gown with simple princess lines.

A young Candice Bergen wears a Minuet white silk/worsted alaskine
gown with button-back jacket.

H&H white silk satin evening cape.

Photos by Milton H. Greene

Tweeds and Woolens - 1963

Fall is on the horizon and many of you are dreaming about the change of season and the resulting change in your wardrobe that will soon take place. In 1963, the fashion forward woman was adding a suit or two to her closet. Tailored to perfection, these suits were fashioned of wool tweeds that were woven with chunky threads in a myriad of colors and textures, or of heavy solid wools that held their shape. The suits were made to last, and they are far superior to anything you can buy today. A suit like this was an investment, and women would often wear them for several seasons.

This Monte-Sano and Pruzan mohair tweed 3 piece suit was available at Bergdorf Goodman. Their in-house milliner, Adolfo, made the matching tweed tam.

Ben Barrack houndstooth check suit in brushed mohair and wool. Came with a black silk peau de soie top and scarf. Sold for $145.00 in 1963 (about $1041.00 in today's dollar).

Monte-Sano and Pruzan black and white wool tweed suit. The jacket buttons up the back and has an attached scarf. Sold for $290.00 in 1963 (about $2082.00 in today's dollar).

Bardley suit in chunky wool was matched with a tweed coat with a stand-away collar. Set sold in 1963 for $215.00 (about $1544.00 in today's dollar).

Handmacher wool melton suit with coordinating cape. Note how the jacket is styled like a polo with a button placket. It pulls on over the head. Set sold in 1963 for $130.00 (about $933.00 in today's dollar).

Chiffon for Evening - 1963

It's 1963, and silk chiffon is just the thing for evening wear. Silk chiffon is such a romantic fabric. Lighter-than-air, it floats and drifts in subtle waves as you move, catching the eye in an alluring manner.

Frank Starr offered this evening gown in pale tints of coral, blue, or mint green silk chiffon. Sold in 1963 for $160 (about $1122 in today's dollar).

A Saks Fifth Avenue exclusive, this ensemble consisted of a silk shantung shell and jacket over layers of silk chiffon in the skirt. Sold for $225 in 1963 (about $1577 in today's dollar).

We've got drifts of silk chiffon available at Couture Allure. Yards upon yards of green silk chiffon make up this gorgeous evening gown from the early 1960s.

This 1960s evening gown is fashioned of silk chiffon in blue and white. We've attributed this dress to Sarmi.

Pretty Faces - 1963

No commentary today. Just some pretty faces from 1960. Enjoy!

Fuzzy Mohair Sweaters - 1963

Mohair is the long silky hair of the Angora goat. It is a strong and durable fiber that takes brilliant color dyes well. And it makes wonderfully warm and fuzzy sweaters, as seen in these examples from 1963.

Snow white pullover with V-neckline and cable stitching at the center front. Hand knit in Italy by Blairmoor Knitwear. Sold in 1963 for $18 (about $125 in today's dollar).

A turquoise cardigan banded in brown and honey beige, hand knit in Italy by Famelia. Sold in 1963 for $18 (about $125 in today's dollar).

Beige vest edged in white by Darlene Knitwear. Worn with a white blouse and white pants. Sold in 1963 for $11 (about $77 in today's dollar).

3 piece pink suit consisting of a sleeveless shell, a cardigan, and a pencil skirt, all by Jane Irwill. Sold in 1963 for $36 (about $251 in today's dollar).

And my favorite, a brown bateau necked sweater with black and white animal spots. The 3/4 sleeves are bell shaped. Hand knit in Italy by Famelia. Sold in 1963 for $25 (about $174 in today's dollar).

Textured Tights and More Cute Shoes - 1963

I'm still on the hunt for a great pair of walking shoes, and any of these from 1963 would do the trick. I especially love the way these are matched with textured tights which give them a "to the manor born" feel.

From left to right:
- Pappagallo red suede ghillie with black patent lacings up the leg. Sold for $34 in 1963 (about $237 in today's dollar). Bonnie Doon black and white textured stockings.
- Bally tan suede ghillie worn with Bonnie Doon blue textured stockings. Sold for $28 in 1963 (about $195 in today's dollar).
- David Evins brown calfskin ghillie laced in red suede worn with Adler heathered ribbed stocking. Sold for $55 in 1963 (about $383 in today's dollar).
- Josef green calfskin handbag. Sold for $46 in 1963 (about $321 in today's dollar).

From left to right:
- Joseph yellow calfskin handbag. Sold for $40 in 1963 (about $279 in today's dollar).
- Wear-Right Irish knit long glove and Grandoe brown rib knit long glove.
- Pappagallo green suede ghillie with rust suede lacings that wrap the ankle. Sold for $16 in 1963 (about $112 in today's dollar).
- Hansen leopard knit long glove.

From left to right:
- Vitality rust suede oxford with rubber wedge sole. Sold for $11 in 1963 (about $77 in today's dollar). Worn with Balenciaga printed tights.
- I. Miller taupe grained leather oxford with perforations. Sold for $40 in 1963 (about $279 in today's dollar). Worn with Francessa herringbone stockings.
- Naturalizer mahogany calfskin loafer. Sold for $18 in 1963 (about $125 in today's dollar). Worn with Mary Grey two-tone lattice patterned stockings.

- Delman hand-knit sock attached to thick soled suede shoe make a unique "boot". Sold for $85 in 1963 (about $592 in today's dollar).
- Gucci shoulder bag in ponyskin and brown leather. Sold for $61 in 1963 (about $425 in today's dollar).
- Kislav hand-sewn lambskin gloves.
- Renauld of France sunglasses.

Couture Accessories - 1963

Accessories have become a very important part of a designer's work in the modern world. Never before has there been so much focus on a woman's bag, shoes, or boots. Where today's fashion magazines are full of advertisements for purses, you don't see them at all in vintage magazines. Here, from 1963, is a glimpse at accessories sold in the Paris Boutiques of some of the Haute Couture.

Tiny crystals dangle from big faux pearls in three strands from the Lanvin Boutique.

A rigid rhinestone collar with dangling rhinestone teardrops by Gripoix for the Lanvin Boutique.

Capucci used dramatic jeweled brooches instead of buttons on a white tea gown.

Roger Model fashioned an evening bag of black plastic links mixed with golden stars for Balenciaga.

A Roger Forest black crocodile bag with a rigid handle cut in one with the body of the purse and a Roman coin latch.
Roger Vivier showed black kidskin boots with new curved stacked leather heels. Roger Model designed this grey calfskin "country" handbag with a gold metal handle shaped like bamboo.

Roger Vivier attached dramatic rhinestone and pearl shoe clips to a black velvet sling-back pump for Dior.